Chapters of Black Book

Black Book Travels: Pomalo, Croatia

Black Book Travels: Pomalo, Croatia

It really only requires consciousness, a certain slowness and the ability to recognise and enjoy the present. It’s about living; the ultimate blissful state when the human body slows down and falls into a consciously relaxed lifestyle. Be it in the ordinary or the extraordinary, pomalo is always special and it’s always slow. And it’s easy on the Croatian island of Vis, an oasis of unseen natural beauty, where Pomalo defines the pace of coastal life of the Dalmatian locals. It’s the word you’ll hear echoing melodically through the streets; the soundtrack of the island. Here, you really do lose all sense of time, you walk slowly in the shade, you act slowly and even think and talk slowly… In fact, here, Pomalo is the synonym for life itself. You’ll soon see. Pomalo, but surely.

Maybe Pomalo looks a little like a 2-hour coffee break in a taverna-lined filmic harbour, or a 3-hour dinner with a backdrop of achingly clear waters and a table lined with Italian-influenced seafood dishes; a raised hand, an endearing smile, or a nod of the head when passing friends in the street; a last goodbye when leaving a beachside bar in the sunset glow.

 It might be the exchange when you cross paths on the way out to the fields and vineyards; or a passing greeting on the way home from the market laden with the day’s fresh catch; maybe the first word as you meet in the shade of the palm trees to watch evening boats return to the jagged mouth of creamy-white buildings that characterise the harbour. It might be the eternal idleness of summer break; wandering through old stone streets and pausing before age-stricken houses, watching the magic of the past lighten them up; or bare-feet trips to empty beaches, hidden coves and perfectly-pebbled coastlines. It might be August hotel bedrooms of tangled sheets; admiring the overhang of balconies, washing lines and tiny jetties; or meandering among walls of ruined palazzos. It might even be the simple answer to the question, “how’s life?”.


Where to stay? @hotelsangiorgiovis is a haute bohemian, family-run affair with an intimate, charming atmosphere - the perfect spot for a beautiful love affair. In the heart of the spectacular island, the 10 rooms are set among the enchanting stone walls of the villa, vineyards and a garden adorned with perfectly pretty furniture for a coffee. It’s the epitome of… a haven for… pomalo living. There’s even a 3 day honeymoon package or a week-long yoga retreat so you can fully soak up the slow. 

One of the most breathtaking beaches in Croatia, Europe and even, the world, is Pritišćina Beach and Mala Pritišćina Beach opposite. This tiny inlet is so small it can barely fit two people and can only be reached by boat or a short swim! But fortunately, despite the race to get there, it’s still so under-the-radar, that it’s often empty. With probably the most beautiful colours of the Adriatic Ocean, and in combination with the cliffs, it makes for unforgettable scenery, the type you should plan to spend the entire day immersed in. Of course, you’re only there for an hour or so, you’ve not done it as the Dalmatians do, pomalo-style.

So, how’s life, again? Is it more Pomalo yet? Maybe a little slower than you’re used to. No stress, it’s time to subvert the fast-forward; upgrade your level of slow. Pomalo living is a coming.


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